Coat and the like



@et 23, E923- EALQ K* H. M. LINDENTHAL v COAT AND THE LIKE 1922 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Aug. lO

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H. M, LHNDENTHAL GOAT AND THE LIKE 2 sheeis-sheet 2 Filed A1121. l0 1922 rasees oa. as, Teas.-

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IBHENRY M. ENT, 03F CHICAG, KLIAINIES, ASSIGNOR T H. LENTE@ et SONS, F CHECAGO, ILLNOIS, A CORPGRATIN 03E' lILLINOIS.

GOAT AND THE LIKE.

Application med August 10, 1922. Serial No. wte.

the like, of which the following is a specication. f

'lhis invention has todo with certain inn-v provements in coats and similar garments, andA'has reference to the construction and arrangement of the back portion' of the garment and especially the ortions thereof adjacent to the collar and s oulders.

Une of the main objects of the invention is to provide a garment of such form and arrangement that the collar and shoulder portions will be formed and supported in' a greatly improved manner as compared to previous arrangements with which l am familiar. ln this connection a further object is to provide an arrangement such that the collar and shoulder portions shall be So connected to thel upper portion of the central seam that they. will retain their shape and form ina greatly improved manner, notwithstanding' the fact that these parts are always subjected to an exceptional amount of strain and distortion.

Another object of the invention is to provide an arrangement which will lend itself peculiarly well to the adjustment of size, or fitting, according to the exact needs of the wearer, so that the size of the garment can be readily adjusted to the exact requirements of the purchaser. This will make it possible to supply all the needs of dierent-purchasers by the use of a smaller number of standard garments.

Another ob`ect in connection with the foregoing isvto provide a garment of such arrangement that the aforementioned adjustment can be readily accomplished and still retain the advantages and benefits of an improved support for the neck and shoulder portions; "that is to say, all of the hereinbefore mentioned benefits are available within a given garment. j

Still another object of the invention is to so design and arrange the different parts from which the garment is to be made that they can be out from the raw stock and thus greatly economize in the use of the material.

A still further object is to provide an interior seam arrangement which shall have a peculiar and distinctive .appeacejasV compared to previous garments with which' l am familiar, and to secure this distinctive appearance in a garment having, the ad- Y vantages previously-explained herein For .purposes of convenience this distinctive seam may be called a spear seam', but it will presently appear that the exact shape of the seam lis in many cases quite immaterial, as

far as the features of the invention are con-4 oerned Another feature of the invention relates to an arrangement whereby the shoulders -and the neck and back portions adjacent thereto can be very easily padded so as to shape the garment to the requirements of the purchaser. ln this connection it is an objectto provide an arrangement such that the garment can be easily manufactured with a suitable pocket or opening for the reception of the padding material, the aforesaid opening being provided without damage or detriment to the remainder of the garment, and also bein so arranged that the garment can be readi y `and vcorrectly fitted to the purchaser for other adjustments, and which opening or pocket can be easily sewed up after the roper padding material has been inserted erein.

Other objects and uses of the invention will appear from a detailed description of the same, which consists in the features of construction and combinations ofv parts hereinafter described and claimed.

ln the drawings:

Figure 1 shows a, front view of a coat embodying the features of the present invention, the front portions of the coat being drawn somewhat apart to show the fullV length of the back seam;

Fig. 2 shows on enlarged scale a fragmentary view of the upper portion of the coat of Fig. 1, looking at the inside face thereof, the lapel and shoulder portions being straightened out a greater amount than in Fig. l, so as to more clearly show the en- 'portions of Figf; and

of the arrows.

The coat herein illustrated includes a central back seam 8, by means of which the back coat sections 9 and i0 are joined together. rfhis central vertical seam 3 is conveniently formedl by bringing together the edge portions of the panels 9 and 10 and joining them Aby a line of stitching 11, so as to leave the aps 12 and 13 lying over against the inside face of the coat,` according to the well understood practice. The width of the back portion of the coat may be adjusted by tearing out the seam 11 and resewing the panels 9 and 10k together along another line,'so as to -either enlarge or reduce the size of the flaps 12 and 13. This is a well understood practice.

The shoulder portions of the coat are designated 14 and 15, respectively, and the collar by the numeral 16. The' collar is formed by means of a strip which is folded back on itself, as shown in detailin Fig. 4, so that one of its flaps 17 may-be laid against the outside faces of the upper portions of the panels 9 and 10, its other flap 18'being laid against the inside faces of the upper por-` tions of said panels, or against extensions of the flaps 12 and 13, according to the present invention.

The under or insidey faces of the shoulders 14 and 15 are preferably faced by means of the panels 19 and 20, as clearly :shown in Fig. 2. These panels terminate in' the curved edge portions 21 and 22, respectively, which reach from the points 23 and 24 adjacent 4to the collar portion, down to the points 25 an-d 26 adjacent to the upper ends of the sleeves 27 and 28.

lmay state that-the panels 19 and 20 serve to a certain degree as reinforcing panels for the shoulder portions 14 and 15, and for this purpose said panels 19 and 20 are tied in atV their upper edges to the collar por tion, and at their lower edges to the sleeve portions, so that the sleeves and collar are in this way directly connected together and the force transmitted directly between them.; and, furthermore, .since tvhe panels 19 and 20 naturall lie across the shoulders of the wearer, sai panels provide a direct support for-the sleeves. j

According to one feature of my present invention, l provide a direct connection between the panels 19 and 20 and the flaps 12 and 13 of the central seam, and also a direct connection between said flaps 12 and 13 and the collar portion, so that all of these parts are firmly tied together inl a manner whereby the stresses and strains can be readily interchanged between them withoutbeing transmitted through the panels 9 and 10er' the garment itself. That is to s ay, l provide such interconnections that there is in effect established a framework to carry and transmit the different forces independently of the main panels of' the back ot the gar` ment itself.

For this purpose l provide the ribs 29 and 3() between the upper portions of the iaps 12 and 13 and the shoulder panels 19 and 20, so as to establish direct connection between said shoulder panels and the flaps 12 and 13. ylihese ribs 29 and 30 may be formed as integral extensions of the iaps 12 and 13, in which case they are also integral with the back panels 9 and 10;'or the ribs 29 and 30 may be separately formed and sewed onto the flaps 12 and 13, as shown by the lines of stitching 31 and 32. vThis is the preferred form, since by its use the amount of material wasted in cutting the garment is greatly reduced and relatively small scraps of material can be used for the ribs 29 and 30. These ribs, sol called, are in fact of sufiicient si'ze, as shown in the different figures, to have a substantial body and suiicient strength so that the strains may be easily transmitted Without; material distortion of the ribs themselves. Furthermore, as shown particularly in Fig. 2, the ribs are of substantially triangular shape, their base portions being tied into the flaps 12 and 13, whereby the connection to these flaps is established over a considerable vertical dimension. rlhis'will make it possible to transmit the force through the ribs into the fiaps from diderent angles without distorting the ribs, and will also prevent undue strain on any given portionof the flaps.

The outer ends of the ribs are connected or sewed into the shoulder panels 19'and 20 at the points 23 and 24, as clearly shown in Figs. 2 and 3. ln this waythe lforces fromfthese shoulder panels are transmitted directly to the flaps 12 and 13 andno portion of these forces-is transmitted through the back panels 9 and 10. Furthermore, the

Hap 18 of the collar is connected' along thel upper edges of the ribs 29 and 30, so that theshoulder panels, collar, andflaps 12 andv 13 are all firmly fastened together and their forces are directly interchanged through the ribs 29 and 30.

It will be evident-that when theseam 11 is adjusted during the process of fitting the garment to the wearer, the ribs y29 and 30` should be disconnected from the. shoulder panels and from .the collar portion, and reset after the garment has been fitted, so

fill

Larnaca that all of these parts will be finally fastened together in their proper relative 4positions.

Examination of Fig. 1 in particular shows the presence of a braid or binding 33 alon the edge portion of each of the flaps 12 an 13 and its companion rib. This braid reaches downwardly throughout substantially the entire vertical dimension of the garment and gives the garment a very distinctive appearance, as is evident from Fig. 1. Furthermore, the edges 21 and 22 of the panels 19 and 20, respectively, are also lfaced with braid, which curves upwardly to the seam of connection between the collar and the ribs 29 and 30. All of these parts are such that the central seam 11, together with the ribs, present the appearance of a spear having a substantially triangular shaped upper head end. The lower portion of this seam is preferably finished by means of a panel 34, which is also trimmed with braid, and which panel is of the general shape of the tail 4of an arrow. Consequently, the entire seam presents the appearance of an'arrow or spear and its tail. llt will'be evident that there is a space established between the shoulder panels 19 and and the shoulders 14 and 15 proper. This space is convenient for the reception of padding material for the shoulders. Ordinarily, the flaps 35 and 36 will be -provided around the sleeve openings 37 and 38 so as to more or less protect said openings and give the garment a finished appearance.

The upper ends of these flaps 35 and 36 are preferably connected directly to the lower portions of the panels 19 and 20 at the points and 26, so that the entire inner portion of the sleeve is given a direct support from the panels. Ordinarily the flaps and 36 are left with their outer edges free or disconnected from the back panels 9 and 10 at the time the garment is manufactured.

After the garment has been tted tol the wearer, suitable padding strips or sheets may be set into the pockets established underneath the panels 19 and 20, and in some cases the flaps 35' and 36, and then all of these parts can have their edge portions sewed down onto the back panels 9 and 10 so as to close the pockets and seal in the padding.

Tailors frequently find trouble from the formation of wrinkles on the neck under the collar of their garments, which must usually be padded with an uncomfortable padding. This padding takes awayv the beauty of the natural effect and fit of the garment. The present invention, as hereln explained, eliminates all possible wrinkles and misfit in the back of the collar and gives beauty to the garments worn by different proportioned men. flhis is true whether the garments be of high or low neck, or lower shoulders, as the majority of people are built in dierent proportions and dimensions.

While l have herein shown and describedA only a single embodiment of the features of my present invention,'sti1l I do not limit myself to the same except as l may do so in the claims.I

I claim:

l. As a new article of manufacture, a coat having a pair of back panels joined together by a vertical central seam, with flaps at said seam lying against the inside face of the garment, a shoulder panel lying against the inside face of each shoulder of the garment and secured thereto at its upper edge and also adjacent to the sleeve opening, a collar section along the upper edge of the garment, a rib extension on the upper portion of each of the flaps first mentioned and extending sidewise adjacent to the collar section to overlap the upper portion of the corresponding shoulder panel, a connection between the upper edge of each rib and the collar section, and a connection betweene the end of each rib and the adjacent shoulder panel, whereby the shoulder panels and collar section are directly supported by the seam flaps through the medium of the ribs, and whereby the upper interiorv portion of the garment is held .to-

getherV and reinforced independently of theA back panels, substantially as described.

2. As -a new article of manufacture, a coat of adjustable size having a pair of back panels joined together by a vertical central seam, with fia-ps at said seam lying against the inside face of the garment, a shoulder panel lying against the inside face of each shoulder. of the garment and secured thereto at its upper edge and also adjacent to the sleeve opening` a collar section along the upper edge of the garment, a rib extension 0n the upper portion of each of the fiaps first mentioned and extending sidewise to the collar section to overlap the upper portion of the corresponding shoulder panel, an adjustable connection between the upper edge of-each rib and the collar section, and an adjustable connection between the end of each rib and the adjacent shoulder panel, whereby the 'shoulder panels and collar section are directly supported by the seam flaps through the medium of the ribs, and whereby the upper interior: portion of the garment is held together and reinforced independently of the back panels, and whereby the size of the garment may be changed by changing the back seam and the connections of the ribs to the collarsection and to the shoulder panels, substantiallyas described.

HENRY M. LINDENTHAL. 

